Wednesday, 2 March 2011

A New Pollution for an Ancient Culture?

Although I read, or at least browse the front page of, The New York Times every day, I wouldn't normally read an article about the tasteless and low-class McDonald's; however, the title "Raising a Milkshake to the Bride and Groom" doesn't mention the word McDonald's, and it was in the Global Spotlight listings on the lead page, where it looked as though it might be relevant to cultural anthropology, which we have just started reading about in Quest. I'm glad I had a look.

In "Raising a Milkshake to the Bride and Groom", Joyce Hor-Chung Lau reports on the McWedding, a new service offered by the fast-food restaurant chain since October 10, last year. According to Lau, legislative changes to Hong Kong's marriage laws in 2006 make it possible for couples to wed in places other than religious venues or government offices, and McDonald's has now added this to its list of services. One attraction, Law writes, is that a McWedding is far less expensive than more traditional Hong Kong weddings; a further factor that makes it work in Hong Kong is the very different cultural perceptions of McDonald's in Hong Kong as compared with the US or other Western countries, where McDonald's is certainly seen as cheap, but in a very low-class, tacky and tasteless way. In Hong Kong, on the other hand, Lau quotes anthropologist Gordon Mathews who explains that since it's introduction in 1975, McDonald's has been seen "as a safe haven where students could study and stay off the streets" so that a whole generation of young middle-class people has grown up with positive feelings towards McDonald's (¶ 15). And McDonald's is also sensitive to the sales value of traditional "local customs, particularly Chinese numerology beliefs that determine the best dates for weddings or other important events" (¶ 9): the new service was introduced no October 1o last year because 10-10-10 is a lucky date, items can be numbered according to lucky numbers, and an appearance of traditional Chinese decoration is also blended with the symbolic McDonald's golden arches. Finally, Lau relates that its break "from strict cultural rules" (¶ 21) and tradition is an advantage for many people because it makes the wedding more relaxed and enjoyable, especially for the couple getting married.

I have eaten in McDonald's, but the last time was a long time ago. I guess I'm one of those Western people who think of McDonald's as low-class and nasty. When I was at university, I used to go to see new films at a cinema in central Sydney with a friend who was fond of a Big Mac afterwards. I preferred to visit one of the nearby Chinese or other restaurants, but every now and then I would agree to the cheaper Big Mac option and accompany my friend to enjoy the delights of McDonald's. Actually, the French fries weren't that bad; the trouble is that everything else was awful. But perhaps it's improved over the past 25 years or so. Maybe it's time I gave McDonald's another try. I don't care so much about it being low-class or non-traditional, but the poor quality did turn me off. On the other hand, I would agree with Mathew's that the reliable, clean and well cared for premises of every McDonald's outlet in the world do make them an easy, convenient and safe place to sit and relax. They are especially useful if you need a clean toilet, so although I haven't eaten in one for many years, I have occasionally popped in to avail myself of the air-conditioning and other reliefs.

Would I recommend McDonald's for a wedding? Perhaps not, although I wouldn't be surprised if one of my nephews or nieces opted for that in future. Perhaps because they've grown up with them, or simply because of effective advertising, McDonald's is probably seen less as low-class today than in teh past. I suspect that the biggest complaints against McDonald's today is that their food is seen as being unhealthy, especially as contributing to the growing obesity rates in Western countries. This is something that Lau also mentions in her article, but I would agree with the Chinese that it's not something worth too much worry. And it's definitely not fair to blame a business like McDonald's if you put on weight because you enjoy buying and eating their products - that would be as irrational and unfair as blaming alcohol companies for violence caused by whisky, Honda and Mercedes for car accidents, and drug dealers for addiction to alcohol, heroin or yaa baa.

When Jeremy, my 16 year old nephew, whose expectations now include of a large box of Krispy Kremes when his uncles visit, which I'm hoping will be a fad rather than a tradition, invites me slip into a T-shirt and jeans to celebrate his marriage in the local McDonald's, I will happily accept, even though it will mean buying a new outfit especially for the occasion. I'm not promising to eat a Big Mac, and I don't think I'll touch their sickly ice-cream, but the coffee isn't too bad as I recall, and the French fries used to be quite decent. Just as long as he doesn't insist on a wedding "cake" from Krispy Kreme.
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References
Lau, J. (2011, February 27). Raising a Milkshake to the Bride and Groom. The New York Times. Retrieved March 2, 2011 from http://www.nytimes.com/2011/02/28/world/asia/28hong-kong-mcdonalds-mcweddings.html?emc=eta1

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